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25.02.2016 admin
Description: Use a wood slab as an inexpensive alternative guestbook! See more photos from this wedding on the source.
You’ll also pay about $750-1500 (lump sum) for a pump truck if your concrete can not be delivered through a chute from the back of the truck, as will be the case for most upper floors.
On a lower level which will have a slab poured anyway, a finished concrete floor is the cheapest floor you can do. In most residential construction, a concrete floor will be covered by carpet, tile, or wood. Do not believe a heating contractor who tells you that a reflective insulating blanket is all you need.
Many people argue that you should insulate the floor joists below your heated slab on an upper floor. As I’ve already suggested, you pretty much want to use in-floor hydronic heating with concrete floors.
I made a bunch of tiles to try different sealing methods and different coloring techniques.
The nice thing about this situation is that you can try something and if it doesn’t work you can consider alternatives.
Also, the concrete acid stains are not hard to use, if you really don’t want a plain gray floor. Hello, we built a home 7 years ago and had help from a family member who has stained several houses, including his own. It is really simple to pour a slab on an upper floor if the house has been engineered for the weight. I’m moving into a condo with concrete floors, currently covered with shag carpet that smells of cigarette smoke. I think a coated and sealed concrete floor should last about like a wood floor finished with similar sealers, maybe even better. We used the Behr Semi-Transperant Stain from Home Depot and then applied the Wet Look Sealer. There are two kinds of concrete: (1) concrete that has cracked, and (2) concrete that will crack. Wiki containing architectural and structural drawings as well as subcontractor information. Has any one item been reused more creatively, with more functional use and more practical application than the lowly used wood pallet?
In an effort to bring every idea or wood pallet project onto one web page, we present 107 Used Wood Pallet Projects & Ideas to spark you creativity or inspire you to create then next pallet project. And if you are wondering where to get a used wood pallet, here are some ideas: Any warehouse around the area you live will likely give them to you for free. We have categorized the pallet projects below so keep scrolling until you see something you might like to try. A chemical reaction occurs between the cement and the water that results in a rock-like material with very high compressive strength. In general, you pour the floor after the walls have been framed, but before the drywall has been installed.
Thus, the trades usually make a mess of the floors without any concerns. Paint will splatter, drywall mud will cake surfaces, there will be chips and dings from dropped objects, etc. Theoretically you only need to insulate the edges of the slab. I believe code requires something like R10 for four feet in from the edge.
This is because most portland cement is very gray, and most gravel and sand is gray enough that the color of the cement dominates.
I’ve come to conclude that the best overall approach is a simple clear acrylic sealer. Fresh concrete is highly alkaline (high pH) and some acrylics don’t like highly alkaline surfaces.
I’ve tried tung oil finishes (including Danco and Sutherland and Welles formulations). Most true epoxies are thermosetting polymers, meaning they are mixtures of two compounds, which react to form a hard polymer.
They collect dirt & dust, so require frequent vacuuming when I would prefer to just sweep my floor most of the time.
It will be a two-story with a full basement, with all levels having concrete floors and hydronic heating. The area under my rolling office chair in the Church House needs to be resealed every year or two. He helped us do our kitchen, living room, dining, utility, hall and 2 bathrooms downstairs. I can’t seem to find a concrete contractor that knows anything about pouring a finished floor over radiant heat on the second level. Our Park CIty house is a second home, but we have not had to touch the floors for two years.
And finally, if you are looking to start a DIY blog, we have a step by step guide for starting you own blog. While stylish headboards can be quite expensive, a vibrant array of do-it-yourself options makes imaginative bedroom design a reality. This material ends up in a mixture with sand and gravel, which forms a very strong, very inexpensive composite material.
The reason you only need to insulate the edges is that once you have warmed up the earth under your house to a depth of about 12 feet or so you won’t lose any more heat to the ground in the straight down direction. I’m not going to go into the details other than to say that there is no radiant heat transfer in a system with no air gap. So, you absolutely must have a great vapor barrier under your lower-level slab (not an issue for upper levels). They also argue that this allows you to maintain better temperature control between floors. Portland cement can also be white, which may be used in special applications like countertops. I suspect that most of the floor area in the Park City house will not need resealing for 10 years, given that it is used relatively lightly. We purchased our products at a concrete staining store and took their advice on what to use.


However, if you run an office chair with hard casters on the floor, you’ll need to retouch the area under that chair every couple of years.
Today we feature 25 of the best DIY headboard ideas for your inspiration.Modern HeadboardsPillow HeadboardWhat better way to celebrate the ritual of sleep than by constructing a headboard from pillows?! While I wish I could have made all of the choices I shared last week, I decided to make Emily Henderson’s wood slab table. My opinion is that either mesh or rebar can work as reinforcement, but that wire mesh is more easily installed incorrectly, and so rebar is the safer method. I spent a couple of days scraping and scrubbing with a scotchbrite pad on my first floor, and thus learned my lesson the hard way. You will continue to lose it out the edges and to the sides if you don’t insulate the edges.
Thus, there is absolutely no reason to embed a layer of reflective foil between the crushed stone and concrete on a lower-level slab. In some parts of the world the sand is a distinctive color like red or black, in which case the concrete takes on the hue of the sand. Of course in most cases you are starting with a gray material and so getting a light pink or something is unlikely. You can mix the concrete right in the mold, trowel the surface smooth, let it sit for a couple of days and pop it out of the mold.
Upstairs I used poly sheet before drywalling.) Still, next time I would hire someone to do a careful job of floor protection right after any concrete was placed. After about 6 months we noticed some white areas forming on the floor mostly where there wasn’t much traffic. You certainly don’t want gypcrete, unless you plan to put down wood floors or carpet.
Anyway, adding another coat of acrylic sealer is easy, and only need be done where the coating has worn away.
In any case, you are more or less stuck with what you have, unless you are going to remove several tons of concrete with a jack hammer.
I would wager than there is not an object so often transformed into a useful object than this stack of wooden planks pieced together to form a small slab for the simple transportation of other sometimes more useful objects and products. This next DIY idea creates a grid-like design by using puffy pillows in understated shades and patterns.
The project is pretty straight forward, but I have a few tips and tricks!In my previous post, I showed a bit of the behind the scenes and how I used my Intel Tablet to help plan this project. I am in the process of building a second home in which all three levels will have concrete floors.
It depends on the mix, but typically several thousand pounds per square inch compressive strength.  In flooring applications, concrete is almost always reinforced with either wire mesh or rebar, which theoretically provides tensile strength as well. It also does not include placing in the slab any plastic tubing for hydronic heating, which you’ll want to do if you live in a climate requiring heat.
I also believe that in most upper-floor residential slab applications, it pretty much doesn’t even matter if the concrete is reinforced. This is because you need something to attach the bottom of the dry wall to after you pour the floor. This is a big deal, arguably the most important few hundred dollars you’ll spend on your project. I believe the heat transfer between a bare concrete floor and the air above it is dramatically better than between that slab and the room below…that path requires conduction through the sub-floor, convection through the air space in the floor joist cavity, conduction across the cieling material, and then convection downward to the room.
Paint is a simple technology, is inexpensive, and can achieve pretty much any color you want.
The colors are mostly muted, the distribution of color is mottled, and the patterns are soft. I first sprayed the floor with diluted muriatic acid (resulting in fizzing) and then washed the floor with a mop. You can then play around with finishes on the bottom surface, which should be really smooth from the plastic on the mold. I was a bit nervous that the measurement feature would lead me astray, but I’m happy to report that everything turned out perfectly! In principle concrete is (a) very inexpensive, (b) a wonderful means of installing hydronic heating, and (c) attractive. The disadvantage is that the color palette is quite limited (greenish, brownish, yellowish). If you use a satin acrylic you are going to get a very similar look to an oil finish, but with much less fuss. However, acrylics are so standard in floor coatings, and so easy to apply and re-apply, that I lean towards that approach.
I believe the clear epoxy coatings are what you see in many Whole Foods supermarket floors, usually applied over acid stained surfaces.
I used this method to test different concentrations of pigment and to test different sealers. Because of it’s RealSense technology, all I had to do to plan the project was take a photo. But, I’ve found that there is all kinds of confusing information about how to achieve these aims. You’ll also need to repaint periodically when the paint wears through (which it will do).
In the Church House project, I experimented with a bunch of acid stain options under my stair on a surface that would be hidden in the finished house.
The prices are similar, so there is probably no harm in using the primer as the first coat.
The MSDS lists as the active ingredient perfluoroalkyl methacrylic copolymer in the range of 1-5% total weight. Polishing the entire surface is fairly expensive and I’m not sure it is a good DIY project. We also noticed a lot of fine white dust accumulating in our house that didn’t seem normal. The beauty of this project is the way you can customize color and pattern with the stroke of a brush. Here is what I’ve learned based on experience, research, talking to concrete contractors, and my own experiments.


But, if you are just trying to thermally separate two heated rooms, I doubt it matters much. Still this is a pretty good option, particularly for an old concrete floor, where you need to clean up some surface defects. The advantage of the lower-solids formulations is that they dry a bit more slowly (more water to evaporate) and are less viscous. It is so painful to have to scrape and scrub at the end of the job, before applying floor sealer. The floor looks a little like it does when you leave a glass on a wooden table and the sealer crumbles up.
The slab will cover the first two, and the top one will be the nailer for the baseboard and dry wall. As a result, you may be able to apply them more uniformly and they may flow into the cracks and interstices more readily. Conventional acrylic coatings adhere over silicates, so one approach might be to first apply a silicate and then apply an acrylic coating. You don’t notice all the drips and marks during construction, but they all have to be cleaned off at the end.
Is there anything I can do to remove the crusty stuff and then what shoule I use to reseal the floor. If you want a perfectly smooth surface, you could use a diamond polisher to create a pristine flat surface. We all do that, right?One of the main tips I can give is that you need to protect your wood, especially if this is a piece you want to keep in your house for a while.
I have found that if you are trying to coat a warm concrete floor in a low-humidity environment, the coating dries almost immediately on contact, which can be a challenge. I was not careful enough about the floors in the final stages (finish carpentry and painting). It is a well mannered acrylic sealer, easily applied and quick drying.) If you have some bad spots, you can certainly try to patch them with a mortar mix.
We did put some of the gritty stuff they recommended at the concrete store on the floor also. You should try some other contractors, because this is just not very hard for a good flatwork guy. To make your own plywood headboard, take a trip to the local home supply store and purchase a few simple items: one large sheet of plywood, sandpaper, stain and sealer. None of the guys (except possibly the painters) are very careful about floors, so you really do have to protect them. I have had pretty good luck grinding and polishing small sections of floor with an angle grinder and diamond pads. I used a polyurethane interior sealer, which is why this project takes so long (just dry time).Apply one coat and let dry for 2 hours. When you’ve sanded, stained and sealed your headboard, set it behind the bed and enjoy the earthy statement it creates.
Would you ever take on a project like this?*Resources: hairpin legs from here, and tree slab from here.
From whimsical and organic to geometric and contemporary, a myriad of styles suits every design sensibility. Purchase a decal designed specifically for headboards, or let inspiration take hold and create your own design by combining your favorite decal selections.Upholstered HeadboardsUpholstered Shutter HeadboardThis last upholstered headboard project has a twist–the fabric and batting are placed inside of two shutter frames! Using metallic paint on the wood and striking fabric for the middle gives the headboard a contemporary feel.
The curved outline of this first DIY idea adds elegance, while a bold color choice introduces a vivid palette. So, I will put this project on my list and hopefully find all the required materials in shops in Europe, too. Fiberboard, foam board, muslin, decorative fabric and piping give this project its substance, and the finished product reveals a big payoff.
The power is in the headboard’s height, which draws the eye upward, making the room look taller. The first idea (below, left) shows DIY enthusiasts how to refresh an upholstered headboard with new fabric. The second project (below, right) uses decorative molding to create a picture frame for the outline, then fills in the center with fabric-covered plywood.
I have these decorative wood slabs in my apartment as decoration (candles and flowers and stuff like that on top) but a table would be awesome. Paint a headboard of your choice, or paint directly on the wall to create a headboard effect. For stencil specifics, visit Good Housekeeping.Using two shades of the same color when painting a headboard is both unexpected and visually interesting. Below (left), the light green stencil paint makes a monochromatic statement against the pear green wall color. Featured on Simply Seleta, this project takes its inspiration from a Domino magazine image.An even bigger time-saver? In fact, the headboard is actually a decal, another option for achieving the stencil look without having to buy painting supplies. The yellow headboard (below, right) has a simple rounded top, but the curved slope and flat edge add interest. Trace the outline of your headboard of choice, cut the wallpaper to fit it perfectly, then cover the headboard in its new coat. The white-edged headboard below (left) may look like a re-purposed fireplace, but it’s really made of foam architectural trim! Designed by Sheri Sheridan, the mirrored headboard (below, right) is crafted of affordable IKEA tiles, creating a glossy shine. The magic ingredients are Luan (also spelled Lauan) plywood and metallic-sprayed painter’s tape. Staining the plywood adds contrast, and using the tape to create a geometric pattern adds a retro yet modern vibe.



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