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Framing a shed dormer roof framing,best built sheds kelso wa jobs,fine woodworking outfeed table,diy shed kits uk free - Try Out

11.08.2015 admin
SBE Builders is a commercial and residential framing contractor located in Discovery Bay California. Helping apprentice carpenters on their journey to becoming master carpenters with Certification in roof framing.
Rafter Tools+ is a rafter calculator for complex roof framing angles that other roof framing calculators don't offer. Be sure to take on only those tasks you are comfortable doing and observe any and all safety precautions when working outside on a roof. To begin your dormer project, you may need a plan to present to your local building department.
After the dormer is framed and the sheathing is attached then roll up your sleeves and get busy. Ceilings and walls should be insulated according to your climate conditions and drywall should be hung. I'm really starting to like the idea of a deck off of the gable end, simplifies the interior framing, roof framing and eliminates all of those pesky fire code issues.
Whenever adding any type of dormer, it's essential to determine the roof load and design the load path transfer to the existing floor joists or roof rafters. DESIGNS LEARNING OBJECTIVE: Upon completing this section, you should be able to describe procedures for the layout and installation of members of gable, hip, intersecting, and shed roof designs. This article is not intended to guide you step by step through the construction process but rather to give you an overview of what is involved and what you can do. Depending on your skill and comfort level, you can elect to complete the project or specific parts of it.
Before applying the siding you will need to wrap the sheathing with 30 lb felt paper or apply an appropriate housewrap. Then you can ensure adequate bearing points, or add framing and install beams to carry the loads through the walls down to the foundation.
This is your woodworking search result for DORMER woodwork plans This is a link to angstrom Google three-D SketchUp drawing for roof framing with dormers on both sides.
FRAMING THE DORMERS to juggle when you plan how to build He first off considers the slope of its flat Framing amp shed dormer is a jolly straight. However, you can cut significant cost if your contractor allows you to do some of the work and you are willing to take on specific tasks. When adding group A shed dormer higher up inflate framed half walls don’t build the wall extension directly on top of the balloon wall meridian plate shed dormer framing plans. In this section, we will examine various calculations, layouts, cutting procedures, and assembly requirements required for efficient construction. We get angstrom unit customer that wants a shed dormer to brace across the entire do you have plans you fire do anything you lack to a house Building the 4by Scott Fincher5 904 views 0 59. Which way you decide to support the dormer loads depends on the interior layout you're shooting for. My first choice is to install double or triple roof rafters on either side of the new dormer for the sidewalls to rest on. It also leaves the area beneath the common rafters uncluttered without any walls to interfere with open space and provides freedom to lay out partition walls later. I locate the position of the dormer and do as much work as possible inside the attic before opening up the roof. First I insert double or triple rafters between the ridge and exterior wall flush to the inside edges of the dormer opening. Rolling them one at a time into position with a little help from a sledgehammer usually works. I use a recip saw to cut the rafters off at the top of the opening laying out the cuts to include the headers. The run of the overhang, called the projection, is the horizontal distance from the building line to the tail cut on the rafter. Another downside to the full-height bearing walls is they can create a tunnel effect inside, especially when the ceilings will be high. For wide gable dormers where the walls will carry Herculean loads, LVLs or steel I-beams may need to be inserted into the floor system to hold up the roof. And it's in these cases where I take extra care to follow the load path through the first floor and into the foundation with posts framed within bearing walls.In either case, I frame the dormer walls, cut the rafters, and prep the ceiling joists before cutting open the roof. I also cut one end of the dormer ridge to match the common rafter pitch and leave the other end long for trimming in place. But if the dormer wall is positioned in from the exterior wall, the floor joists bearing the load must be adequate to carry the weight.
The rafter table makes it possible to find the lengths of all types of rafters for pitched roofs, with unit of rises ranging from 2 inches to 18 inches.
When the intersection is below the ridge, a header needs to be inserted to support the dormer rafters. I double or triple the common roof rafters on either side of the dormer opening and insert a header between them at the intersection point. The header must be sized to carry the tail joists that fill between the header and the ridge and carry the dormer rafters. Then I determine the height for the end wall that provides a rafter slope of at least 4 in 12 and allows for adequate headroom in the dormer. To minimize open time that the roof is exposed to the elements during the framing process, I pre-cut the dormer rafters and header (if needed) and frame up the end wall.

Since the roof in this example has a 7-inch unit of rise, locate the number 7 at the top of the square. Rather than pre-cutting studs beforehand, I frame sidewalls after the new dormer rafters are set.No matter whether I'm framing a gable or a shed dormer, I like to do as much planning and pre-cutting before opening up the roof. The shorter the time the roof is open before the new roof is tied into the old, the less time I have to spend keeping the house weather-tight. This means that a common rafter with a 7-inch unit of rise will be 13.89 inches long for every unit of run. In most cases, I cut a roof open and frame up to a 12-foot-wide gable dormer or a 20-foot-wide shed dormer to the point of being dried-in, in less than two days with just one other worker, and very often in just one day.
To find the length of the rafter, multiply 13.89 inches by the number of feet in the total run. To change .75 inch to a fraction of an inch, multiply by 16 (for an answer expressed in sixteenths of an inch). The actual length (as opposed to the theoretical length) of a ratler is the distance from the heel plumb line to the shortened ridge plumb line (fig. Set the blade of the square along the plumb line with the heel at the mark just made and strike a line along the tongue. Line the tongue up with the last 12-inch mark and make a second 12-inch mark along the bottom of the blade.
If, however, the building walls are out of line, adjustments will have to be made on the rafters. However, many Builders prefer to cut the overhang after the rafters are fastened to the ridgeboard and wall plates. A line is snapped from one end of the building to the other, and the tail plumb line is marked with a sliding T-bevel, also called a bevel square.
Fascia boards are often nailed to the tail ends of the common rafters to serve as a finish piece at the edge of the roof. By extending past the gable ends of the house, common rafters also help to support the basic rafters. If a window or vent is to be installed in the gable, measure one-half of the opening size on each side of the center line and make a mark for the first stud. Starting at this mark layout the stud spacing (that is, 16 or 24 inches on center [OC]) to the outside of the building.
Plumb the gable-end stud on the first mark and mark it where it contacts the bottom of the rafter, as shown in figure 2-29, view A. Measure and mark 3 inches above this mark and notch the stud to the depth equal to the thickness of the rafter, as shown in view B.
Place the framing square on the stud to the cut of the roof (6 and 12 inches for this example). Slide the square along this line in the direction of the arrow at B until the desired spacing between the studs (16 inches for this example) is at the intersection of the line drawn at A and the edge of the stud. This means the angle of slope on the roof end or ends is the same as the angle of slope on the sides. A roof framing diagram may be included among the working drawings; if not, you should lay one out for yourself. Then, one-half the span, which is the same as the total run of a common rafter, is 15 feet.
Since a hip rafter joins the ridge at the same height as a common rafter, the total rise for a hip rafter is the same as the total rise for a common rafter.
For the roof on which you are working, the total run of common rafter is exactly 15 feet; this means that you would step off the hip-rafter cut (17 inches and 8 inches) exactly 15 times.
The size of the ridge-end shortening allowance for a hip rafter depends upon the way the ridge end of the hip rafter is joined to the other structural members. As shown in figure 2-31, the ridge end of the hip rafter can be framed against the ridgeboard (view A) or against the ridge-end common rafters (view B).
To calculate the actual length, deduct one-half the 45° thickness of the ridge piece that fits between the rafters from the theoretical length. The 45° thickness of stock is the length of a line laid at 45° across the thickness dimension of the stock.
If the hip rafter is framed against the common rafter, the shortening allowance is one-half of the 45° thickness of a common rafter. When stepping off the length of the overhang, set the 17-inch mark on the blade of the square even with the edge of the rafter. Place the tongue of the framing square along the ridge cut line, as shown, and measure off one-half the thickness of the hip rafter along the blade.
Then, turn the rafter edge-up, draw an edge centerline, and draw in the angle of the side cut, as indicated in the lower view of figure 2-33.
For a hip rafter to be framed against the ridge, there will be only a single side cut, as indicated by the dotted line in the figure.
For one to be framed against the ridge ends of the common rafters, there will be a double side cut, as shown in the figure.
The tail of the rafter must have a double side cut at the same angle, but in the reverse direction. When the plumb (heel) cut and level (seat) cut lines are laid out for a bird’s-mouth on a hip rafter, set the body of the square at 17 inches and the tongue to the unit of rise (for example, 8 inches-depending on the roof pitch) (fig.
When laying out the depth of the heel for the bird’s-mouth, measure along the heel plumb line down from the top edge of the rafter a distance equal to the same dimension on the common rafter.

This must be done so that the hip rafter, which is usually wider than a common rafter, will be level with the common rafters. A pair of valley rafters is placed where the slopes of the roof meet to form a valley between the two sections.
These rafters go from the inside corners formed by the two sections of the building to the corners formed by the intersecting ridges. Most roofs having valley rafters are equal-pitch roofs, in which the pitch of the addition or dormer roof is the same as the pitch of the main roof. There are unequal-pitch valley-rafter roofs, but they are quite rare and require special framing methods.
Since the pitch of the addition roof is the same as the pitch of the main roof, equal spans bring the ridge pieces to equal heights. The valley-rafter tail has a double side cut (like the hip-rafter tail) but in the reverse direction. This is because the tail cut on a valley rafter must form an inside, rather than an outside, corner. As indicated in figure 2-39, the ridge-end shortening allowance in this framing situation amounts to one-half of the 45° thickness of the ridge.
Since the pitch of the addition roof is the same as the pitch of the main roof, the shorter span of the addition brings the addition ridge down to a lower level than that of the main-roof ridge. Note that the long valley rafter has a single side cut for framing to the main-roof ridge piece, whereas the short valley rafter is cut square for framing to the long valley rafter.
This means that, in an equal-pitch framing situation, the unit of rise of a jack rafter is always the same as the unit of rise of a common rafter. It is also the common difference of jacks, meaning that the next hip jack will be 2 times 19.23 inches. The bridge measure of any jack is the same as the bridge measure of a common rafter having the same unit of rise as the jack. You should know by this time how to apply this to the total run of a jack to get the line length. Therefore, the length of one of these jacks is equal to the common difference of jacks. 9 and 10, and the length of one of these jacks is therefore twice the common difference of jacks. 13 is twice the spacing of jacks OC, and the length is therefore twice the common difference of jacks.
A valley jack rafter has a shortening allowance at the upper end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the ridge, and another at the lower end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the valley rafter. A hip-valley cripple has a shortening allowance at the upper end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the hip rafter, and another at the lower end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the valley rafter. A valley cripple has a shortening allowance at the upper end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the long valley rafter, and another at the lower end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the short valley rafter.
View B shows that the length of the ridge on a dormer with sidewalls is the length of the dormer rafter plate, plus one-half the span of the dormer, minus a shortening allowance one-half the thickness of the inside member of the upper double header. To get the angle of this cut, set the square on the rafter to the cut of the main roof, as shown in the bottom view of figure 2-59.
Measure off the unit of rise of the dormer roof from the heel of the square along the tongue as indicated and make a mark at this point.
The locations are then transferred to the ridge by matching the ridge against a rafter plate.
In an equal-span situation (views A and B), the valley rafter locations on the main-roof ridge lie alongside the addition ridge location.
In view A, the distance between the end of the main-roof ridge and the addition ridge location is equal to A plus distance B, distance B being one-half the span of the addition. In view B, the distance between the line length end of the main-roof ridge and the addition ridge location is the same as distance A.
In both cases, the line length of the addition ridge is equal to one-half the span of the addition, plus the length of the addition sidewall rafter plate. The distance between the point where the inboard ends of the valley rafters (both short in this method of framing) tie into the addition ridge and the outboard end of the ridge is equal to one-half the span of the addition, plus the length of the additional ridge (which is equal to one-half of the span of the main roof), plus the length of the addition sidewall rafter plate. Cripples and jack rafters are usually left out until after the headers, hip rafters, valley rafters, and ridges to which they will be framed have been installed.
For a gable roof, the two pairs of gable-end rafters and the ridge are usually erected first.
The braces should then be released, and the pair of rafters at one end should be plumbed with a plumb line, fastened to a stick extended from the end of the ridge. The braces should then be reset, and they should be left in place until enough sheathing has been installed to hold the rafters plumb. Collar ties, if any, are nailed to common rafters with 8d nails, three to each end of a tie. Ridges and ridge-end common rafters are erected next, other addition common rafters next, and valley and cripple jacks last.
When properly nailed, the end of a straightedge laid along the top edge of the jack should contact the centerline of the valley rafter, as shown.

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