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Kitchen island wine rack plans,advanced woodworking project ideas 8th,solid wood furniture south carolina 021 - Videos Download

27.04.2015 admin
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Step-by-step instructions to build a great portable kitchen island Allowing for extra storage, usable counter space, and of course more wine, this DIY kitchen island will boost the value and utility of your kitchen, provided you have some free time, tools, and just a bit of skill.
The wine shelf slats should fit between the 1×4 sides and rest on the cleats without binding or being too sloppy (see pic). Make the bottom slat ends flush with the outside of the 1×3 bottom shelf sides (see pic). Constructed from solid hardwood, this kitchen island features three pull out drawers to store up to 15 bottles of your favorite wines.
We used a miter saw and a stop block to ensure uniform length for the pieces – it is essential that each piece is the same length. The Wine Rack Kitchen Island also has a large drawer and cabinet for extra storage, and includes a stemware rack and two towel holders. This piece is so short the opposing pocket holes will overlap in the middle but this will not affect fastening. The nickel plated hardware gives the oiled finished wood a comfortable look for any kitchen. If you plan on staining the entire piece, use only the pocket holes on the backside, so that no holes appear on the face of your wood. Use wood filler in countersink holes on long shelf side faces, and top holes on the inside of the wine shelf sides. Remember that the final shelf width will determine the slat lengths, so cut them after you’ve finished the frame, to ensure that you can measure them to fit. Fill in joints between legs and other pieces if you desire a smoother finish between the separate pieces. Or get creative with multiple 1x4s, plywood covered with laminate, or plywood covered with decoupage.
Phase 3: How to use pocket holes For the pocket holes, reference the manual that came with your jig system.

Using a flat bench and the Kreg clamp (face clamp) to ensure everything is flush will help immensely.
Put the clamp on the joint and turn the assembly upside down on a flat bench, pushing the 6″ apron until the top is flush with the top of the leg.
Drill from the side opposite the cleat on the wine shelf – cleat will remain inside and the screw will come from the outside.
2. Lay a bead of glue down the cut end of the short shelf sides, then screw both the wine long shelf side and the bottom long shelf side into the short shelf sides, making the tops of short and long sides flush. The wine shelf slats require no sanding, as corners are not exposed and the 90 degree edge keeps bottles from rolling. Pocket holes are used for butt-joints and putting glue between the end of the piece with screws and the face of the piece you are attaching. Make sure not to over tighten, as these coarse pocket hole screws with pull themselves right through pine. 3. Place assembly on flat surface and ensure everything is true and tight, making necessary adjustments.
Both holes must be within 2″ of the ends to ensure they hit the leg when you screw them together. Depending on cuts, the lower shelves may give enough friction to hold these apron pieces where they belong. Try different spacers (magazines, books, hex nuts, wedding bands, etc) until finding something that works. Use the outside hole guide for one hole then make the jig flush to the opposing side for drilling the second hole through the other hole guide.
Use the scrap 1×4 to get the proper inset and put glue between the short shelf sides and legs.
If this is not the case, use a strap clamp or have a helper hold the apron long pieces flush with the front side of the 2×4 legs and flush with the top of the legs. All pocket holes should be made on the same side of the piece, and this side will be assembled to the inside of the island so the holes are not visible once completed (see pic).

When you are happy with the look, attach the slats, ensuring the ends are flush with the long shelf sides. Use (1) 2×4 laying between a flat bench and the bottom of the low shelf to get the proper spacing for the bottom shelf. These are strips of spruce that have been glued together in the factory and sanded smooth to create a solid board, giving the appearance of knotty-pine hardwood floor on a smaller scale.
If you’re rounding corners, use a circular object to trace the radius at each corner. Leave 1″ at each end to accept the short sides of the wine shelf already assembled on the leg sides. On the same side of the 1×4 the cleat is on, pre-drill your (1) pocket hole at each end at the top (see sketch in next step). The bigger the piece is, the more the effect is pronounced. Thus, we need to solidly attach the top, yet leave some room for movement. You will need a forstner bit to cut out the hole in the apron top to accept the fastener flush with the top. There are also table top fasteners that are Z shaped and require a dado to be cut in the apron. The lower shelf could hold decorative baskets or bowls, adding character or simple functionality. Remember, this is your project for your kitchen, so finalize the island to your tastes and surroundings.

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