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11.03.2015 admin
At first a was thinking no drilling in the wall so I need to make some kind of ladder roosting and nest boxes on the floor.
But I also want some storage room for food and things and was thinking to use the upper space for nesting boxes. Wood is very expensive over here but would I need a board against the walls so I can secure things or not? Any advice is welcome this is my own project and I am not a handy woman :( but still want to try it. You could build a loft along the back half for storage and suspend your roost from the ceiling. I'd consider pulling out the window and replacing it with something that breathes but keeps predators out - like hardware cloth.
I was planning on making ventilation roosters on every side of the walls extra above and down. I now use a special nest box because I have an egg eater, I am trying to get another one ( or 2).It's just that I am not a big fan of nests on the floor but I realize I can't hang them because of the thin walls. Oh sorry I didn't mean the shed hahaha I meant the storage space inside to storage the food.. Tiny problem, my partner doesn't want me too turn it into a coop but use it for real storage , so now I need to look for a new project to turn in to a coop because I am selling the one I am using now.
Oh I might add I do have poop boards 3?" below my roost that I clean every 2 to 3 days (excellent for catching eggs laid through the night). I have three levels in my coop and a bit of storage over my nest boxes (milk crates with a board in front zip tied into place)  Also more milk crates on top for storage. I need to build a second coop so we can get more chickens.  I've been looking at all of my options.  I'm wondering if anyone has converted a metal shed into coop and how you did it? Proud Mama Hen to chickens, ducks, turkeys, Nigerian Dwarf goats, 5 sweet house dogs, 2 LGD,  5 fluffy cats, 4 cute kiddos, and 1 AMAZING hubby (who puts up with all of my critters)! Hi, I bought a 8x10 metal shed at Home Depot, 2 years ago it was on sale for $200 my DH put in 3 vents one on each wall and a vent that has a cover over it on the roof, (it has a screen type cover then a top on it) it looks like a chimney(sort of) I know I am not explaining it very well.  In the winter we cover them with plastic and I just stuff a cloth in the roof one, from the inside. My DH used tin snips to cut the metal, after he marked where the vent was to be, he drilled it first with a 1 inch drill bit then he cut.
We started with an old metal shed and lots of materials we had on hand to make our recycled coop. Our coop sits right next to my raised bed garden and I plan to let the chickens free range in the garden in the future to help with weeding and bug control. Here is our old metal shed, which was dented up in the back where a tree fell on it and pretty scraggly looking as you can see. We cleaned it out and used stepping stones we had on hand to help even out the floor and to raise it off the ground. We've collected a lot of stuff over the years with 3 kids and trying to work and stay organized so we had a lot of stuff that I could re-purpose. Here is a pic of the chicken door for outside free range in the future, once we get more fencing up. We put 10' boards across the top and then stapled hardware cloth across the whole top for aerial protection. We had a ladder roost originally, but then decided to build these roosts instead to allow more floor space. We started in October and I ordered my chicks for a February 11th hatch date, so we worked until they came and we still have been modifying the roof to stop leakage.
We would like to add more fencing around the coop so they can have free range later on and get into the garden and out to the yard, etc.
I also painted my coop with left over paint we had and the messed up reduced price paint at Lowes. I have to thank my wonderful husband for all his help and hard work, I could not have started this venture without his help. Also, our son helped with some of the heavy lifting and our daughter helped with painting and the run construction, so thank you both!
Buying the right materials is also important, if you want to get the job done as a professional. Building a chicken coop is usually a complex and expensive project, but what most of you don’t know is that you could get the job done in just a few hours and invest less than 100 dollars.

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Building the front wall of the chicken coop is easy, as you just need to secure the 2×4 studs to the bottom and top plates.
Continue the project by installing the side walls, using the free plans you can notice in the image.
Building the frame of the back wall is similar to making the front wall, so you should cut the top of the studs at about 5?. Building the nesting boxes can be done in several ways, but in this article we show a basic and efficient method. Attaching the side walls to the chicken coop will create a proper climate for the chickens. Building the door of the chicken coop is a straight forward project, as you can get the job done is several minutes. Top Tip: If you have followed the instructions and used quality materials, the chicken coop should be similar to the one in the image. You can use something like a milk crate or 5 gallon bucket on its side for a nest. Two nests will be plenty for the 4 or 5 birds you'll have in there. I am not sure if I or my BF can fixed that with the window and I'm not sure if they have hardware cloth over here. If they forage all day and only in to sleep and with the added ventilation you could fit a few more.
My roost are 2x4 wide side up and are housed in cups which allows me to set them aside for easy cleaning of the poop board (I have a piece of vinyl flooring over my pop board that is just friction fit pops out easily when soiled and pops back in after cleaning.
I leave the door partically closed in the winter and in the summer I leave it open and at night I close in the winter and my DH made a door that I put in the doorway that is covered in hardward cloth, that way they can get more air.
And event hat gets stuck and needs to be taken down so that the "runner" can be cleaned of shavings, snow, dirt, debris. It's harder to keep warm as the metal just acts as a conduit for the cold, same as with heat.  Right now was are in the negatives and the temp in the shed was lower than the outside temp. I did not want to spend a ton of money on this new venture of mine so I wanted to find ways to make this venture a reality without hurting our budget. We used one of the panels we took off the shed as a roof for the boxes and I put a little piece of laminate flooring in each box for easy cleaning. We had a lot of wall block and stepping stones and we covered the extended hardware cloth with those to discourage digging.
I still may or may not add poop boards depending on if I am going to use the deep litter method or not.
We're thinking of ideas to help them get up to the roost in the future, so we may be adding a ladder or lower roosts for them to hop up. If we count all of our costs we probably spent less then $500 which includes all the hardware cloth and lumber for the run. I am a simple person, I don't ask for diamonds and gold, I just wanted a chicken coop and chickens, so he was happy to help with this new venture. Now the price is $69.05 and it says $34+ for shippingEither way if you look at price per foot Amazon was a lot cheaper then anywhere else. Building a wooden chicken coop is a nice weekend project, especially if you want to protect the chickens from bad weather. If you want to have an easy access to the nests, you could install several small doors ti the back of the chicken coop. Top Tip: This project is about building a small chicken coop, so if you have or want to grow more than 10 chickens you should scale everything up of look for other plans.
Nevertheless, before fitting the studs into place, we recommend you to cut their ends at 5?, using a good circular saw. In order to drain the water properly, you need to create a small slope for the roof (at least 5?). Drill pilot holes trough the plates and insert the 3” galvanized wood screws into the wooden studs, by using an electrical screwdriver. As you can notice in the image, you should cut the components at the right size and attach them into place. Drill pilot holes trough the components and secure them into place. As you can see in the image, the frame of the door has to be extremely light, otherwise it will move from place over time.

Therefore, attach chicken wire the outside of the coop and secure it into place with nails. If you want to see more outdoor plans, we recommend you to check out the rest of our projects. LIKE us on Facebook to be the first that gets our latest updates and submit pictures with your DIY projects.
The droppings just seem to vanish and turn to dust when it comes in contact with wood pellets .
We put a board behind the nest boxes and cut holes in the board and in the back of the shed, so we could collect eggs from the outside of the coop.
We extended the hardware cloth a foot on the bottom side for each wall so we could bury it or cover it for digging predators later. The straw and board that the brooder light is attached to will be removed once my chicks get older. Right now I use sand for the floor of the coop and I have two bails of straw to use for the nest boxes.
Work with attention and with good judgement, as you need to plan everything from the very beginning, otherwise the coop might not be large enough for your needs.
In addition, if you want to keep the expenditures under control, you should try to use simple techniques and solutions. Drill pilot holes trough the plates before inserting the 3” galvanized screws into place. Building the walls of the chicken coop is similar to building a shed, so you should get the job done by yourself. Top Tip: Check the corners for squareness, after installing every components, if you want to get a professional result. Use a circular saw with a sharp blade to make the cuts, in order to prevent tearing the edges. Continue the projects by covering the roofing with tar paper, making sure the strips overlap at least 2”.
Top Tip: Check if the corners are right-angled, before adding the chicken wire to the door frame. We also took off a lot of the panels on two sides so we could add ventilation for a more open air coop.
The chicks just moved into the coop yesterday at a couple weeks old and they are loving it. Align the components at both ends before driving in the screws, and pre-drill the lumber, if you want to get durable and rigid joints. Align the components at both ends before driving in the screws, if you want to get a durable result. Cut out two small holes in the plywood sheet, to have an easy access to the nests, as you collect the eggs. This is one of the last steps of the project, so make sure you take your time and pay attention to the details.
The Styrofoam boards we have up now keep falling and we tried both gorilla glue and aluminum weather tape.
You can also see the stepping stones and we had some hardware cloth from a old fencing project that we put over the stepping stones, then we put down some 2x4's we had on hand from one of our home projects and some sheet wood for the flooring on top. I have a power cord run down there and I made them a little brooder box with a roost they can run in to get warm and they have a heat lamp over their brooder box and another heat lamp inside of the coop for when they come out of the box. Work with great care and attention, if you want to get a professional and a durable result. Secure the pieces of plywood to the wall with metal hinges, to protect the area from wind or bad weather.
I also covered the windows and door with vinyl with some areas left uncovered for ventilation. I think that if it had been a wooden structure the corner post would have held up and there would have been less damage.

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