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This time, while I was looking for admixtures online to add to possibly help eliminate future water problems rotting the post I happened onto a 2 part high density foam. The advantage for me is I could set a post by myself using a very simple system of temporary braces to hold the posts for 15 minutes until the foam set up.
When I say high density foam, I mean a foam that takes a claw hammer to penetrate after it sets up. I not only liked the ease of one man setting all of the posts, but that it really helps eliminate post rotting problems for many years. For the last couple of years a tremendous amount of our work has come from pouring concrete floors in Pole Barns. The construction process for a post frame building is much quicker versus stick frame construction. All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register; for an account, so join our community today today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support. Not everyone will have these three conditions, so if you don't this post will be more a curiosity or waste of time, please bear with.
Of course, no concrete form proposal or discussion is complete without considering a metal, pre-rolled, (maybe) pre-oiled, alternative form; to cast the building post bases. Here a red steel plate with rebar welded to the bottom is shown with the eventual column base above it.
Some old Jet rod put in as a down hand, drag fillet, between these two pieces of plate will keep the column in place on most buildings.
For those who can afford a slab, and will be using a footer as just a slab edge that is thicker, the same plate is shown cast in place.
To hang a pipe frame door, use the concentric sizes of the pipes and cut hinges and hinge stops. Of course there are plenty of other ways to make the doors hinge, but this will allow the entire end wall to open up -if that were needed in your barn? To attach purlins that will hold the sheeting, I go to the metal distributor and have them cut hundreds of unequal leg angle 'clip's or L's on their iron worker. To add purlins, roof joists or whatever we call them they lay on the outer pipes and cross lap at the welded on angles.
At the ends you can make the wooden purlins even with the front or back wall purlins surfaces, or overhand as needed for an eave line. Four 14' to 16' bays of pipe will be a nice little building 30' x 40 or so and with enough ceiling or overhead to put some decent equipment inside and strong enough to hoist a decent load. Whether you make the trusses wide or narrow, use lots of pipes for columns of just a few, a well thought out poll barn can be a very low cost means of providing a welding shop.
I used to build boats but couldn't afford a boat barn so I had to come up with something; labor was all I had in abundance. Welding most tubing alloys is pretty easy with LH but I have come to prefer 2% nickel flux core WITH a cover gas and pulsed MIG. There's reason why you don't weld rebar, and never to a plate for the purpose you describe, that's why the use of anchor bolts.
First I'd like to thank you for the time you spend in getting all this info compiled together. I wonder if you could use plate to gusset the joining of the tubes instead of cutting all those fishmouths. You could butt the gussets against the outside of the tube, or you might slit the end of the tube and insert a gusset inside with welds down both sides of the tube.
90% (maybe more- 99%??) of what I've posted won't make any building code review, and there are improvements at every turn, all the details can be improved for every aspect of a building.
I've usually cut a hole or ten in the cast plates welded the rebar both sides with LH70 and called it a day.
As to anchors, I've used a yard of pipe and bored a dozen rebars into the pipe and cast that in a barrel, (incidentally as an off point item: this will work as a decent mooring in a few fathoms of salt water too) and a half dozen other methods. If you had a building inspector close enough to know you existed: none of this is possible!
BryanD, I'd done the sketches some time ago during a discussion with a truly low overhead (boat) builder who wanted to put up a boat barn and had happened on some tube for almost nothing. My post here isn't to encourage anyone to get in trouble: if you live where there is enough officialdom to care about your life- don't listen to my ideas or you'll likely get cross threaded with those type of folks.
In Alaska, and especially rural Alaska, we don't have quite the density inspectors found more commonly in the old country. If you're close to many others, if you live in a densely populated state: ignore this post! I usually make one set of wrap around for all the pipe 'gores' or fishmouths then just copy them with a plaz or oxy torch.
When they're all clean enough to seat and tack I move on to the next web pieces ends or next joint.
Slit joints will work, because one friend about 25 years ago, and passed to his reward since, did just that. My idea was the all around saddled fit was stronger because you were welding the two tubes' shells to one another.
We also did stud welding for various anchors as well, with large Nelson stud welders, but the also make a full line of rebar for stud welding too. Looks a lot more complicated than most of the pole barns built with pipe down here in Texas.
There's a guy here in Texas named Harvey Lacey who posts on Tractorbynet a lot and he builds pole barns.

One suggestion would be to avoid suspending any frame work from the bottom chord of the trusses, so you may have design something that bears on the existing posts and can provide a suitable span, for what you want, probably not all that difficult, but you most likely do not want to hang anything off the bottom chords as they are designed to support the truss and roof, hard to say how much beyond that is allowable, one would have to get that info from the truss mfr. JD, what's the deal with the hardware, and wood treatment, does the latter ACQ react with mill finish mild steel or something like dissimilar metals does in the galvanic series, in those instances you either have to create a bond breaker or other means to keep em separate, or use a compatible material. I think I recall you mentioning the CCA vs ACQ and or latest pressure treated wood preservatives. These beams will be doubled up in the front and the back to safely carry the trusses and roof.
If you would like to see the materials required to get the building as shown in the pictures below (framed, roofed, sheeted, and wrapped. Go here to read more about the building materials and also a super cool 3d model I made of this barn using Google Sketchup. If you are interested to know how long it took me to get to this point and how many man hours went into it then click the link below.
Also, because posts are spaced farther apart than studs, there are fewer interruptions in insulating materials.
Post-frame buildings transfer loads to the ground through the posts, which are typically embedded in the ground or surface-mounted to a concrete pier or masonry foundation. Due to the application of modern structural engineering principles and stress testing methods, post-frame technology is recognized as a significant advancement in the centuries-old art of wood-frame construction. Due to the nature of its design and many external facade options, post frame may be customized to provide virtually any look. Post-frame buildings may be designed to meet the highest standards for quality and aesthetic beauty.
Key advantages of using post-frame for construction include durability (buildings that last), efficiency (energy and cost efficient) and flexibility (customizable design). Post-frame buildings support a wide choice of interior and exterior finishes, roofing products, and architectural details. Financial institutions with limestone entryways, traditional concrete-block schools, brick-and-mortar office complexes, strip malls and other retail establishments, warehouses and other industrial facilities– all can be most quickly and economically erected as post-frame buildings.
Post-frame buildings consistently outperform many other structures, particularly in the area of durability. Post-frame buildings are relatively lightweight and perform exceptionally well under adverse conditions. Post-frame construction is a cost-effective option because it requires fewer materials, less-expensive components, and less construction time than comparable methods. The cost of post-frame construction is generally lower because it requires limited wall- and roof-framing materials and minimal footing and foundation materials. From site preparation to project completion, construction times are very short for post frame building, which cuts down on labor costs. Although almost any type of exterior finish can be used, 26 to 29 gauge ribbed steel panels are used for siding and roofing on many post-frame buildings. Post-frame is an energy-efficient building method and its primary material, wood, is a renewable resource that is widely available and sustainably harvested throughout North America. The widely spaced, relatively thick wood side and end wall posts minimize the number of thermal breaks and minimize the thermal bridging effect in post-frame buildings. Where newer energy codes require higher levels of insulation, post frame is a particularly good option because its walls and roofs are relatively easy to insulate. Post-frame structures can be used for a variety of purposes, from garages, to horse barns, to riding arenas, to hay barns, to homes.
These type of buildings offer customers an alternative to standard stick frame construction.
Construction time literally goes from weeks to just days when you decide to build a post frame construction building. For anyone who lives where there's more room with less officialdom, well, this poll barn can keep the wind off your MIG bead.
He set up a port-a-band and hand slit the ends of countless webbing pieces and his son used MIG to outside fillet each when the trusses were set up to weld. First row about 2 feet from the end wall, second row 4 feet out from the first, then layed 18' 2x8's flat across the crossmembers from the back wall out, making a loft that is 18' by 40'. I worked in a lumber yard for 4 years and it was mainly SPF, SYP(Truss Plant materials) and pressure treated Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA) which was .40 saturated. They feature large, solid-sawn posts or laminated columns instead of wood studs, steel framing or concrete masonry.
Because the larger posts and the interlocking frame can handle greater loads than stud-wall construction, fewer structural materials are needed – which saves on material and installation costs.
Post-frame buildings feature an exceptionally large wall cavity for ample insulation, which allows for lowered heating and cooling costs throughout the year. There are a variety of foundation options unique to post frame, such as plastic barrier systems for enhanced protection of wood and concrete posts or piers. Post frame is now the construction method of choice for any number of commercial, retail, industrial, residential, religious and public building needs. Post frame is an effective and versatile choice for building additions and remodeling projects.
For religious facilities and commercial, institutional, and industrial buildings, clear-spans in excess of 100 feet and large uninterrupted spaces allow for open, flexible floor plans uninterrupted by load-bearing walls or columns. When compared to other wood-framed construction, post-frame systems provide greater structural stability and also the capacity to build a much higher sidewall with fewer materials. The diaphragm design procedures used in post-frame building account for how all of the building components work together to transfer lateral loads to the foundation.
In many instances preservative-treated posts or isolated concrete piers embedded directly in the ground serve as the foundation for the post-frame system, eliminating the expense and time of pouring a continuous foundation.

Post-frame column spacing is very wide, typically between 8 and 12 feet, and thus the crew spends less time installing fewer structural members. Wood is strong and innovations in engineered wood products allow it to be used for longer spans and taller structures than ever before. Wood is a good insulator, thereby reducing heat transfer at the widely spaced thermal breaks in post-frame systems. Its wide column spacing allows for continuous insulation between structural elements, fewer interruptions in insulation material, and less chance of thermal leakage. I worked at a large fabrication shop for a few years, and welding rebar was some of their bread and butter. A bigger person could do more then I do.CCA treated poles are the best of the the "experiments" over the years.
However, studs, steel and masonry may be incorporated into post-frame structures to make unique “hybrid” buildings.
The posts in most post-frame buildings are either embedded directly into the ground or are attached directly to the top of cast-in-place or precast embedded concrete piers. This makes these structures highly resilient under the pressure of external stresses such as design wind, snow, and seismic loads. Large glued- or nail-laminated wood columns are widely spaced, so fewer wood materials are needed than for traditionally-framed buildings. An experienced crew can erect post foundations, side and end wall wood posts, wall girts, roof trusses, and roof purlins in 2-3 days. Condensation accumulation on the inside wall surfaces at thermal breaks is practically eliminated in post-frame buildings. Where the insulation is interrupted, wooden structural members have natural insulating properties and conduct less heat than most structural steel or masonry components. Then at the bottom of the sq tube and again about 12''s up I weld fingers on it to hold it in place.
Of course where I live and being classed as farm the building restrictions are somewhat less stringent. I set it high enough to walk under, and also let the uprights extend 4' through the first deck, and added more crossmembers upstairs.
There was also a Red label .60, first time I saw it was when I delivered trusses to RK Miles up in Manchester VT, they had just built new lumber buildings out of 12"x 12" .60 CCA, I bought a cut off, they would not even give the scraps away LOL ! What he did was to sink phone poles in the ground within the barn and build the second floor on top of them. Any roof pitch can be chosen, and covered with metal or asphalt, wood, tile, or slate shingles.
Posts may also be attached to continuous concrete or masonry foundation walls or to thickened edges of concrete floor slabs above grade.
Post-frame buildings feature an exceptionally large built-in wall cavity for ample insulation, thereby lowering heating and cooling costs throughout the year. I used 6' boards on each row of the upper deck, so I have a walkway between the first and second rows of racking, with shelves on each side.
I know I've had at least a couple tons stored up there at various times and I can access it with my backhoe's front bucket. It is typically more cost-effective to add overhangs, gables, dormers and other visual interest to post-frame than to steel-frame buildings. Portions of posts embedded directly in the ground must be properly pressure preservative treated. People weld rebar all the time, in fact we had to pass a certain Canadian Welding Board certification test for it. On the one end I ran out of salvaged lumber and used 2x12 on 16in centers with floor joist hangers. I built this like a horse barn with a heated garage at the other end so that at some point down the road I decide to sellout, I can advertise the property in Joisey targeting horse people for about X times what I have invested! Other architectural features such as porticos, canopies, guttering, window and door trim, and wainscoting are also commonly added to post-frame buildings.
Any of these post-foundation options transfer lateral loads efficiently and directly to the ground and add to a building’s stability and wind resistance. It seems that like anything else, handled properly there was no environmental issues, seems like an envirowhacko agenda item unless I've missed something.
Then you add joists perpendicular to those girders, and your flooring gets attached to those joists.If this was a residential structure, it would be more complicated.
That almost 4th floor, ( realizing most codes don't allow for wood framed structures with a 4th floor ) you must have found a way to frame that and provide the support you needed for same, I want to do that with a 20x32 pole barn, mostly for aesthetic reasons, but it would make a great observation post over my place being on a hill, was thinking of spanning the 20' wide part, posts are 8' o.c. You'd have to calculate soil density, and add large concrete pads under the poles.Since you've got more of a farm-use, not so complex.
If your poles are spaced 8 feet apart, and you want to add an upper storage area across three poles to span 16 feet . Most 6" X 6" treated poles sold as 10 foot or shorter, are NOT propertly treated for sticking in the ground. A 16 footer works out nicely to make two.I've had many problems in central New York getting the correct stuff.

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Author: admin | 19.03.2016 | Category: Aluminum Sheds

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