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31-DP-00921 - Flip Top Bench Top Router Table Downloadable Woodworking Plan PDFMaybe you have looks of ambition to build woodworking projects but you are a bit short on space. If you find our website and videos helpful, please click the button above to make a donation to help offset our costs.
Every month we feature a different hardwood by stocking up with fresh new inventory and by slashing the price by 25% or more. Over the last few months, I’ve whittled up a healthy number of Baltic birch sheets to build a wide array of projects. Description: Our demonstrator Joe will give you some straight forward tips and advice on making your bandsaw perform the way you want it to when it comes to resawing and curve cutting.
Description: Come see how simple and magnificent it is to create beautiful carvings using a drawing, a photograph, or a snapshot from your camera phone. We're moving and I'm setting up a new woodshop with enough space (finally) and moderately tall ceilings. Chris recommends using southern yellow pine because it's easy to get 2xs at home depot and the stiffness ranks right up there. The reason for cutting to size is to ensure the shoulders and tenons line up trivially and most importantly to guarantee that the final mortise that I 'cheated' is exactly parallel to the ground and not skewed left or right or up or down. The 8' boards were rough-dimensioned and jointed and planed (at which point I needed the 3 spare sticks since I had lost thickness).
Running four 8' boards clamped together through a tablesaw is almost impossible with one person. These two issues meant I needed a way to glue up and get the laminate blocks 'exactly' flat along their 8-foot face and I needed to get the edges with the mortises all in the same plane although not exact. To test the mortises in the top, I built a test tenon exactly the same as the tenons on the legs. I first used the plane to get tenon thickness right (matching plank depths), and then I dimensioned the stretchers slightly large and used the planer to get height right.
Of course I'm running frantically around at this point, getting everything together before the glue sets. I put a 6' board in the center gap under the table (like those pine boards but under the table) and levered the table on its side. Here you can see my feeble attempt to winch the legs and boards attempting to be used as levers. I haven't chiselled the glue off the top yet, nor have I installed the vise(s) or deadman, but here is a nice view of the table. These wonderfully hand built tables are reconditioned items of lumber from different homes, barn's, sheds and various other items of lumber. This wonderfully refinished birch dropleaf kitchen table merely could be the best thing for your kitchen, morning meal area or casual dining space. An eagle-eyed reader spotted this small benchtop that looks like the bigger Danish brother to the portable Milkman’s Workbench I wrote about in the June 2013 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine. This benchtop was made by LEVARD, a company in Denmark that still manufactures workbenches.
This portable benchtop, which is for sale in an upcoming David Stanley auction, doesn’t appear to be made by LEVARD anymore. I also am not sure if it was intended to be a portable benchtop, like the Milkman’s Workbench.
Chris is a contributing editor to Popular Woodworking Magazine and the publisher at Lost Art Press. I ended up buying this workbench top on Friday at the David Stanley auction, for ?35, to use as a mobile bench for shows and in my small shed workshop. I first heard about them in the late 50’s from our metalwork teacher who was Scandinavian. I to had my first woodworking experience at one of those workbenches at school, and later got my hands on one so when my son gets older, he will have a good bench to start him of, and hopefully his future passion. You will find around 10 or 20 of those benches in the slojd room, of every danish folkeskole (grades 1-10).
Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years.
But did you know that every month we also provide a chance for you to test out the wood and get a feel for it yourself? The Oliver Intellicarve does it all very simply, allowing you to add carvings to box lids, cabinet doors, and furniture parts.

After a moderate amount of browsing the web and the local woodcraft store I finally bought Chris Schwarz's Workbench book and decided to build his Roubo bench shown on the cover here. I really like working with yellow glue and the new III has a longer open time (10 minutes versus 5 for older Titebond). These are mortises that I made by cutting the planks ahead of time and using the lamination to make the mortise. Thank goodnesss I had a friend to help push the ends of the boards while I pushed them through the tablesaw. Since I'm moving I had a half-built pool table in the next room over and the granite was already on the top! Note how I used the flat of the pool table for the face of the laminate, since that was most critical. All further blocks were glued up on the pool table as well, but using that first block as an edge-guide to ensure the block face was flat after glue-up. My mortise machine couldn't mortise a 4" tall object so I had to disassemble the base.
Usually you use the tenons to create the mortises but here the mortises were pre-built so the tenons needed to be sized to fit. The top weighs about 250 lbs and I knew I wouldn't be able to get it off a real table top (and it might have collapsed my precious pool table) so I glued it up where it would end up.
I dry-fit all of the stretchers in the legs and drilled the peg holes with the stretchers clamped in place (and I have no 5'-long clamps so this was interesting). The leg I had been trying didn't really fit (it squeaked when I tried to put it in the hole) and wouldn't go without about 100 lbs of hammering. I cut the dowels to size then used my disc sander to make them look like little pencils (sharpening the top). I wanted to set the bench on its legs here so I could pound on the benchtop and get the leg shoulder flush with the benchtop. Then as the glue was drying I cursed and pushed and pulled and couldn't get the table on its legs all by myself. I lightly sanded 100% of this to clean it up, then gave it a light coat of Satin Urethane to bring out it's warm inviting patina. A couple of hundred pounds of wheelweights on the lower shelf add mass, and I am building a drawer unit. Normally in the school that would be the 19 common tool tray that forms the back of the 19 other benches. No doubt about it, with a table saw and a router, a modern day woodworker is an unstoppable force. This is a free demonstration with a factory trained representative to answer all your questions. I then edge jointed all the boards and marked the jointed side (big arrows on the planks pointing 'down').
After there was a 1 inch gap I then ran them individually through my bandsaw, creating a rectangular slice. During the glue-up I flushed the bottom very carefully and ensured the blocks were flat on the form. I shimmed it pretty carefully and used my longest really flat ruler (1 meter) to try to get it flat. The leg tenons should have fit exactly into the leg mortises because they were built using planks. So, to size the tenon I clamped my belt sander to my table-saw top and lightly pressed the tenon to the running sander belt.
Gluing was difficult because I didn't want glue on the tenon tops but the tenons were pointing upwards for the glue-up.
Those two long pine boards are so that when I flip the bench there is a gap to fit my lever (board) under. I'd put a board under it, lever the board up and watch the bench slide across the room while I was carrying 150lbs or so.
They are distinguished by their unusual tool trays, which are not usually part of the benchtop proper. It would be difficult to use this bench if clamped to a kitchen cabinet or dining table because the rear row of dog holes would be rendered useless. In my last house it was first nailed pine 2x4's left by my contractor and then it was this yellow thing I built.

The usual choice is hard maple but I used white oak because it was substantially cheaper and I like oak.
The glued-up leg had two faces I could plane (the edge face without the mortise and the face-face of the two-board shoulder).
The benchtop mortises are two planks think and the stretcher mortises are all 1 plank thick. I messed up on the left-front (of course) and allowed one plank (not the tenon) to not rest flat. I found by experimentation that 4 planks was about as many as I could carry and run through the jointer laminated together. With one stick, the 2" strip that was ripped went boing and literally flew 4 feet through the air curling into a bow as it went. You would think you could just carefully joint an 8' board and use it as a ruler but it has too much flexibility. I finally found a board that was moderately flat without too many knots but it was checked down the middle. After gunking glue on the first tenon and some of the second I switched to using a paintbrush like a rag. I have this little dead-blow mallet that I beat the heck out of and couldn't get the pegs in.
I’ve never much cared for end vices, so it will be fascinating to see how I get on with it. Indeed, it’s what separates woodworkers from, well, their neighbors-who-need-a-favor. The edge face with the mortise needed to be not-planed (since I didn't want to lose mortise depth nor skew it) and the face-face with the one-board shoulder needed to match the tabletop plank width so I didn't want to slim it. Of course one set of mortises have to be hand-cut since the side stretchers are not parallel to the leg laminate. This caused trouble later but really good attention to detail in the leg glue up saves huge amounts of time by letting you build the mortise using saws.
If I didn't have this table I would have gone out and bought the thickest 4x8 mdf sheet I could find and use that once I figured out how to get it home in my little car.
I jointed both edges and ripped the board in half (twice) using one side for the tenons and one side for the other stretcher plank. Chris says to drawbore the pegs (drill the peg holes in the tenons off-axis to tighten the joint). Better yet, the fit was tight because some glue had run into the mortise in the top and reduced the mortise width a tiny bit. There are quite a few holes in the top, and I can’t tell if they are from a drill or worm. Spots with no glue are bad, too much glue just dribbles out and can be chiselled off so I use too much much glue. When I glued these up I carefully started with the center clamps and moved out to the ends to avoid putting unequal pressure on the clamped block. I finally used the mortiser as a drill press (since my drill press was so useless) and drilled as much as possible and then used the mortiser with no drill (just a mortise chisel) and nibbled the hole as much as possible, leaving the chisel for large waste areas.
I wasn't convinced oak would drawbore as well as pine (getting smarter as the project proceeded) so I didn't drawbore, I just pegged at the clamp position. The other three mortises (which were cleaner) fit perfectly with no tenon sizing (see the photo above where I show the mortise fit). I didn't really need much (if any) glue on the leg tenons since they were such a great fit. First I tried to chisel on the cut-line and after pounding a number of times I had removed a tiny slice so I decided to drill a hole throuugh the slice. Instead some glue filled the space above a leg shoulder or two and the legs were not as flush at the top as I would have liked. My speed-bore promptly went running all over the place and froze in the gap between the bandsaw cut and the leg so I had to chisel the bit out first!
I wish I'd spent that time aligning the legs perpendicular although I'm not sure with the pegs it would have mattered much.

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Author: admin | 14.10.2015 | Category: Building A Shed Floor

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