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Valchromat is an engineered wood product that combines the natural features of wood with the brightness of colors.
It is a product of Investwood, SA a Portuguese company that manages the production and sales of wood fiber boards and cement-wood boards. Valchromat was created in 1996, by a research department at the Valbopan, SA factory, part of an effort to develop and improve wood-based products already on the market. Fibers are colored individually, impregnated with organic dyes and bonded together by a special resin which gives Valchromat unique physic and mechanical features. On the surface small wood fibers are visible, fibres which did not absorb the organic dyes. Easy to Machine - It is on average 30% stronger than standard MDF, and is used for structural purposes.
Non-toxic - Formaldehyde emissions are within limits set by European standards for wood-based materials. Tool Friendly - The panels, after machined, require little or no sanding, reducing labour costs and facilitating the finishing process.
Moisture Resistant - It is moisture resistant so it can be used in kitchens, bathrooms and floors. Sure, it’s possible to find some 100% heartwood boards from time to time, but on a consistent basis and in large quantities?
For this method, we’re specifically talking about dye and there are a number of dyes on the market, usually mixed with water or denatured alcohol. It should go without saying that you should always test your dye process on a few test pieces before committing the dye to your final product.
In this dyed and stained walnut board, you get a nice, dark chocolate color that will last a long, long time.
I am designing a light for a university assignment and have purchased some american walnut veneer which is extremely thin to steam bend into my shape and use as a cover over steam bent pine wood.
With veneer you might be surprised at how dark the walnut will get if you apply an oil such as boiled linseed oil, a tung oil varnish, or even better a walnut colored Danish oil.
If she just wants it darker, you might want to just test out something like a tung oil varnish and see if that does what you want.
Couple of reasons why I like to recommend a light application of dye, sealer, and gel stain before the clear top coat (even if it is a consumer urethane). However, I want it to be clear that it’s not the only way to come up with a pleasing color! Consider finishing the walnut with a tung oil varnish (the Old Masters brand I use in that sample isn’t the only one, but it is a good one!). Yes, sorry, this tutorial really doesn’t cover the ins and outs of the clear top coat choices (and how to apply them!), partly because those techniques are not specific to this wood. Nevertheless, I used 2 coats of dewaxed shellac and 3 coats of semi-gloss lacquer in these samples. I’m about to start a project, and I like the way you evened out the color in the walnut. The American walnut color is a darker brown while the medium brown color has a touch of red in it. Something like tung oil or boiled linseed oil will not work as the top coat in the process above because those need to penetrate into the wood. With that, it’s possible to tint oil and perhaps arrive at nicely blended heart and sap. So I’d like to maintain the original look of the wood while preventing the fading that you indicate will occur. Description: Our demonstrator Joe will give you some straight forward tips and advice on making your bandsaw perform the way you want it to when it comes to resawing and curve cutting. Description: Come see how simple and magnificent it is to create beautiful carvings using a drawing, a photograph, or a snapshot from your camera phone. Ever wondered how the dull and boring surface of an ordinary plywood can be made vibrant with colours that enhance the surface patterns ? The surface preparation required and the method of stain application may make the whole staining process look very complicated.


I don’t claim to be an expert and I am not offering to elaborate on all the different types of stains that are there in the market. As I mentioned earlier, the stained finish will enhance the wooden patterns on the surface and make the grains noticeable more prominently.
While there are certainly other types of wood stains, I have only mentioned those that I have worked with. The coloring of the layers is pretty good too in that it doesn’t bleed much(unless you use Denatured Alcohol on it). Nice result from a interesting product .Where did you buy it ?Sure opens up some interesting design possibilities . Hey Rance, when you are worried about not having a long enough piece to make something, sand the bottom flat and carefully center a wood tenon on it and glue it on and turn from it. DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. The wood fiber boards production is done at two plants, IFM, SA and Valbopan, SA - the latter producing MDF Valbopan and Valchromat, from pine wood. Valbopan, SA was awarded  1st prize of Product Introduction and 1st Prize for Technological Innovation in Paris during the Approfal fair in 1998. While it is similarly wood-based, it has color throughout the thickness, and was developed with specific features of physical and mechanical resistance.
It accepts different types of finishing, from matte, bright, varnished, waxed or oiled, to textured fire-resistant finishing.
Due to the addition of resins in the composition, it has a greater internal cohesion, which gives it a higher mechanical strength.
Once again, its higher resistance capacity is related to its composition and manufacturing process. Decisive for that in the manufacture process, is the magnetic separation and washing the woodchips, as well as the use of a resin with lubricant characteristics which prolongs the useful life of cutting tools. It is suitable for indoors but can be used in protected outdoor applications, in which case it is necessary to varnish the boards on all surfaces and edges. This piece of walnut is not only finished with a clear lacquer but the light colored sapwood has been evened out to nearly match the heartwood.
Lumber grade is a mathematical computation of the amount of clear wood in a board – so says the National Hardwood Lumber Association, the organization responsible for defining the rules of the lumber trade. Fortunately, lumber producers separate their walnut inventory not just by grade but also by color.
Dye is different from stain, as dye doesn’t obscure the grain, which is pretty important when using walnut.
Apply a very diluted dye in a color of your choice to the entire piece, heartwood and sapwood. You’ll need to test different dilution ratios of your dye before you get the color you want. The processed used also blends the pale sapwood so it’s not too different from the heartwood.
I am using pine for the majority of the light as a prototype as I could not afford to buy as much walnut as required. Otherwise, in my experience a really nice dark color for walnut is a stain color called Moorish Teak by the brand Zar.
You can use satin sheen as well or do a final rub-out with #0000 steel wool and a little bit of paste wax to dull the sheen and get the finish buttery smooth. The Oliver Intellicarve does it all very simply, allowing you to add carvings to box lids, cabinet doors, and furniture parts.
The idea behind this post and the subsequent posts (COMING UP) is to detail the process of staining for all to benefit. Unlike in paints, where the surface finish is one uniform opaque layer, stains will make the surface grains visible. Meanwhile, do leave a comment and let me know if there is anything specific you need me to cover in this series. I finally wanted to see what it turned out like(yes, puns always intended) so I cut it in half and chucked it up in the scroll chuck.


I’ve gotten in the habit of cleaning all my turnings with DNA to remove all the sanding dust and to remove any oils that might be present. Because wood, it’s main raw material, has natural variations in tonality, Valchromat can also show variations in color.
Just some sanding and a new local application of finishing suffice to recover the original appearance. And therefore, when you visit your nearest lumber supplier, you’ll never have a perfect pile of full brown walnut to select from. Two nice choices could be Behlen Solar-Lux™ Medium Brown Walnut color or American Walnut color. The walnut veneer is a lot lighter in colour than I want and need a cheap way to darken the veneer, would I work on the veneer before I steam bent or afterwards? Considering the time involved and the additional cost of an arsenal of things to try, you might be better served to just get some walnut.
And usually a consumer grade polyurethane applied right to walnut will ultimately give a rather unpleasing (my opinion) yellow tone, and it does so pretty quickly. Sorry for such basic questions but I’m trying to finish a piece that has to look great but have the ability to hold up to water well.
But as it ages it goes to a rather dark brown, you’ll see a slight difference within a couple of weeks. This is a free demonstration with a factory trained representative to answer all your questions.
This will be a series of 5-6 posts explaining the individual steps involved in achieving the desired look using stains. Following are some of the Wood stains that I have worked and have seen fulfilling results with. Unfortunately, not all colours may be available at the local store as they stock only fast moving colours.
Stained finish is certainly my favorite and I have shown few projects below that I did using wood stain. Woodooz is a result of our love and passion for our respective hobbies and is a sincere effort to educate people in India to look at carpentry as a fun and leisure activity.
Veneer in particular is often rather Gray in color, but it will come back to life with a decent oil finish. This makes it great for turning as it becomes a true spindle turning, and you don’t have to deal with edge-grain tearout. It does not require the use of paint, avoiding thereby the toxic nature of these finishes and the inherent cost of acquisition. Remember, lumber has two broad sides, a face and a back, and when building furniture and cabinetry, only one side is displayed in the final product. You want to leave a light coat of stain right on top of the sealer while also lodging pigment into the pores.
When that dries sand it to remove dust nibs, then top it off with a water based acrylic or a water based urethane. Additionally, the finishing process one uses on a piece of mesquite has a drastic effect, so that’s a very important variable that should be considered.
Now, wood stains is a topic that I have been deliberately avoiding because of my inadequacy in the skill. The most difficult part was determining the step by step process in keeping it chucked in the lathe.
However, over the last few years, I believe that I have gained enough practice and expertise to discuss it here. You can make the color lighter or darker by using thinner coats to go lighter or by adding more coats to go darker. That works too, though the results can differ obviously, perhaps you’ll like that look more.



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Author: admin | 30.03.2016 | Category: Aluminum Sheds


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