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Navy Base at Palm in a red color scheme 1 (Palm) plants represents the plant leaves, hibiscus, Tahitian gardenia (Theale), Tahiti is the simple design motif.
For was open about 2 mm hole near the front left there skirt from the back repaired felt.Through the table felt so invisible, too small.
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So I had a pair of KC HiLites reverse lights that I wanted to replace since I didn't like how I had installed them, the electrical work was unreliable, and after a year they had started to rust on the inside. I bought a pair of Rigid Dually (diffuse) from TAP at a good price and the difference in quality is amazing.
1 Carling Contura V sealed rocker switch (model V1D1JBBB), 1 Carling connector housing, 1 Carling two-position switch holder, 1 switch blank, and a bag of female Packard 630 series terminals, all purchased from OTRATTW. All my splices are soldered or crimped and soldered, protected by heat-shrink tubing if outside of the cab. I still had the KC wiring kit from my previous lights that included different colored wires, and a KC3300 5-pin relay that has two 87 pins (two triggers) and connector, but any 5-pin ISO Bosch-type automotive relay will work too, they are just wired a little differently (see below). White wire (Pin 85) – Trigger wire that gets connected to a tap in the stock reverse light in tail light assembly. I spliced the red wire from the relay to the red wire from the Duallys using a soldered splice, protected by heat-shrink tubing and liquid electrical tape. Under the rear door scuff plate is a grommet that I cut the center out of, and with the help of a little silicone spray, I was able to pull the wire, loom and all, through the grommet. I kept the wire in the loom and ran the whole thing up under the front door scuff plate and behind the cowl side trim panel. I bought a two-switch box from OTRATTW and I used that as a template, marked out the area with painters tape, and cut a hole in the dash using a Dremel and cut-off wheel.
The Carling switches and boxes are well designed and the switch holder just snapped right into place.
The switch comes with a good wiring diagram of its own and I purchased a Carling ?Terminal Connector Housing? that plugs into the back of switch, but this connector housing needs to be wired itself.
Here are the wires at the switch:Yellow wire ? Provides power to the switch from the battery, protected by a 15A fuse.
Once wired, the connector plugs into the back of the switch, and the switch plugs into the holder in the dash.
I ran the blue (power to relay) and yellow (power to switch) wires from under the dash, through the firewall using the "customer access" hole in the grommet under the steering column. I wrapped the wires in split loom to protect them from abrasion and ran them next to the factory wiring harness, under the air box, over the top of the radiator, to the battery, where they are both protected with 15A inline fuses.


I decided to mount the light under the truck, like others on here have done, by drilling holes in the leaf spring shackles, spray paining all exposed metal, and using the brackets supplied by Rigid. They are bright as hell at night, but they don't overpower the rear view camera, so they are just what I needed. The way I have it wired in my original post, the lights come on when the truck is in reverse and also when the switch is closed.
Very glad you got it to work, and maybe there's something different about the relay I used, but my wiring setup is exactly as I described it and you can follow the colors in the pictures.
The switch has power from the battery, to to the relay, and also a separate power supply for the illuminating LEDs that are hooked to the dimmer circuit. The relay that I used has pin 30 and 87a connected when in the "off" state and 30 & 87 connected when "on". I'm not an electrical guy, but from the reading I did, I think all the automotive relays are the same and have the same pin outs.
In your original post, pin 30 is connected to the pos on the battery and pin 87a goes through the switch and back to the pos on the battery. I don't know a lot about wiring myself, but I think there's more than one way to wire a relay. And here is the circuit diagram I followed - I wish I could have posted this as part of my original post, but I didn't have a scanner then. I used a Carling Contoura V switch that called for separate power and ground for the switch illumination LEDs. The moral of the story here is you're using a 5 pin KC relay that has dual 87 terminals versus the other poster's Bosch style 5 pin relay which has a normally open 87 and a normally closed 87a contact. That gives the impression depth to a bewitching color and pattern balances, see Hawaiian shirts. The design trends is to utilize original bulbs instead of the built-in LED lights, this is a good solution to keep the license plate light consistent. They were bolted to the bumper and removing them is another, agonizing story that involves cutoff wheels and vice grips. I also use a little liquid electrical tape to seal the heat shrink because I never seem to have adhesive-filled heat shrink tubing when I need it. I wanted the lights to come with the stock reverse lights, and also separately with a switch in the cab and the relay is key to making that happen.
I spliced this into the red wire from the Duallys (the Rigid wiring harness power wire) using solder and heat-shrink tubing, coated with liquid electrical tape.
If you're using a standard Bosch 5-pin relay, see Post #45 for the correct pin connections. I ran the blue power wire and the green trigger wire up to the cab by fishing the loom-covered wires inside the left frame rail and snaked them up to just about the rear door of the truck, where I exited the frame rail. So that narrowed it down to the empty space between the dimmer switch and the steering wheel. I used the ?two position? switch holder with comes apart and can be expanded to add additional switches if desired. The switch itself lights up when the switch is on and it also has an illumination LED to tie in with the rest of the instrument illumination. When the switch is turned on, this wire carries the signal to the relay to turn the lights on.


This will illuminate the switch when the lights are on, and dim the switch along with the rest of the dash lights. It's unswitched power so you do not need the key in the ignition to use the lights with the switch. It was very helpful in showing me the way and I didn't know about the switches or that web page. As you described, when you put the truck in reverse the coil in the relay is energized, the internal switch is closed, and pin 30 energizes the 87 pins. When you close your in cab switch you are feeding your lights directly through it, so the relay does not limit the current that the switch is making and breaking.
You're right that I'm using a KC3300 relay, which looks the same as a standard Bosch, but must have very different internals. More information: most of cars came with two bulbs above the license plate, usually they are in warm color, while built-in LED are in cool color, this caused color inconsistent if you installed a camera with built-in LEDs. All my wires are run with split loom if there’s a chance that they can rub up against anything. The Duallys came with a wiring harness that has nice waterproof plugs for the lights and both power and ground. Many thanks go to benchwarmer4203 and johlke for identifying the discrepancies between the KC3300 relay and the standard Bosch relay. I considered the little useless cubby to the left of the glove box, but you have to mess with the passenger air bag to get the RH center instrument panel finish panel off, and I didn’t feel like doing that. Our site is specifically designed for you and it's a great place for Ford F150 Fans to meet online.Once you join you'll be able to post messages, upload pictures of your truck, and have a great time with other Ford F150 fans.
This turns on your lights and also back energizes your in cab switch through the center 87 pin.
Even before the Aloha fan popularity pullover (fit type) is attractive, but this model is somewhat made in detail (the shape of the shirt) tight, so don't button the dress in fully open style interesting. I filled the female relay connector with dielectric grease before I plugged it into the relay, just to be on the safe side. I had to get under the truck and reach up inside the bed to cover the exposed screws with the liquid electrical tape.
If your switch has an indicator light for when the lights are on it should illuminate that light while the truck is in reverse.
Loose wiring rattles around when it is cold out, and that noise coming from behind the dash drives me crazy.
I also wanted all the wire junctions to be up high, out of the wet, so I did most of the wiring behind the left tail light. Finished in a less showy tone too color table area and the resistance was the table lining cotton fabric, because patterns. If you study a schematic of the relay and look at your original post, you will see that it won't work.



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