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Your fuel injection computer (DME) may output a code that indicates a faulty crankshaft position sensor (CPS). Begin by opening the hood and looking down along the rear right side of the engine (green arrow). Shown here is the crankshaft position sensor as it is located in the engine block directly above the starter. Shown here is the general location of the electrical connector (directly above the starter) from underneath the car (green arrow). Followup from the Pelican Staff: For the crank sensor, a scope will be your best bet to test the signal, not resistance. Followup from the Pelican Staff: If all other injectors are firing, it must be a wiring issue.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: P0809 is also "Variation in angle of camshaft to crankshaft incorrect". Comments: I have a 1998 Mercedes C-Class forget which one about 135K, it starts fine cold, runs awhile fine at Freeway speeds, then when I hit stop & go traffic closer to the city it will die. Followup from the Pelican Staff: When your engine doesna€™t start youa€™ll want to check the basics.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Impossible to know without testing volume, pressure and quality. Limp? Comments: I have a 95 S320 when car is cold it will run until car reaches 80 on the temp gage, the car loses power and wont get any rpms and sometimes dies.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is mounted on the left side of the crankcase, near the transmission bell housing. Followup from the Pelican Staff: It won't the same, the sensor is mounted in the crankcase and has a similar design. Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your vehicle has a crank sensor in the bell housing and a TDC sensor at the crankshaft pulley. Comments: I just bought a 2001 Mercedes E320 kompressor, The previous night I revved it but was not going about 4000rev, the next day the engine failed to start but cranks well, no malfunction is displayed on the cluster.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. Comments: I have had the Crankshaft position sensor replaced due to code I believe it was P0017 check.


Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may need to adapt the new sensor using a Mercedes-Benz scan tool. Comments: Hi i have a 2001 mercedes benz e320 and the car turns off after 30min and i have to wait 15 to 20 minutes to get it started agan but there is no check engine light on, when the car shuts off the abs and esp light comes on what can make thise problem?
Followup from the Pelican Staff: We don't have that engine in the US> on similar models, it is located in the crankcase, near the transmission bell housing, on the starter side. Followup from the Pelican Staff: The sensor is int he top of the bell housing, behind the oil filter.
Comments: I have a 1994 E320 in my garage which "ran when parked" with a head gasket failure. Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be the crank sensor, depends on what is missing when the engine will not start.
This important sensor tells the car's computer where the flywheel is located in relation to the combustion cycle.
Squeeze the two tabs together (green arrows) to release the electrical connector and pull it off the top. No spark, no injector pulse,can get the fuel pump to run by jumping relay, no cranking rpm and it's a new cps.
There is no signal to the injector from the ECU I have checked the wiring and there is continuity between the ECU plug and the Injector Plug, I have replaced the ECU but with the same issue No signal to No2 Injector. What is the voltage on each terminal of the injector, plugged in, unplugged (under load), when running?
Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression.
I meant the car runs fine until it reaches 80,,THEN it goes into lymp mode and wont accelerate and no rpms most times it dies. I then checked spark plugs as well as wiring until I discovered some fuel injector sensor wire that have worn out insulation.
Cleared the code and started engine Turned the engine off ad I still have the same Check Engine lite come on with Crankshaft position sensor. No spark.I think my damaged the rear crank sensor, in the bell housing.How I can replace the sensor? The DME takes the signals from both the cam position sensor and crankshaft position sensor, and calculates when to fire the fuel injectors and spark plugs.


Unfortunately, this is one of those instances, where you can't get a camera in there to show the location.
While I'm driving I give it gas doesn't respond well it takes a long time to accelerate seems like it wants to cut out. If I try to re-start the engine will crank but not start, but if I wait for the engine to cool, it will restart. After discovering that all are worn out, I then decided to cut and replace the whole wiring system. I disconnected the electrical connector and removed the bolt but the sensor doesn't want to budge. If the crankshaft position sensor is not operating properly, your car will run very erratically or perhaps not at all.Replacement of the sensor is not as easy as the camshaft sensor, unfortunately.
The more gas I give it the slower the vehicles speed gets can't go up any hills because it won't accelerate. After about 3 seconds it goes back into lymp mode, Ive read that to be symptoms of crankshaft and cam sensor. The crankshaft sensor is located on the rear of the engine up against the firewall right above the starter motor. Based on the movement of the flywheel and also input signals from the various sensors on the engine, it provides the car's electronic control unit with information required to trigger the ignition system at the correct time.Begin by first disconnecting the battery at the access port on the front of the rear seat.
This problem does not happen when I leave the car for a Long period of time maybe 2hrs before I start the car again.
The crankshaft sensor is located next to the oil filter housing at the very bottom.Squeeze the two tabs that hold the electrical connector to the top of the sensor.
This is one of those things that may be easier to do from underneath the car due to the intake manifold being in the way or, you may be able to reach it with some very long pliers. It helps to have a hex bit with a magnetic tip so you won't drop the bolt into the bowels of the engine bay and find yourself very frustrated.You'll now need to pull the sensor out of the mounting bore. Once again, you may find this difficult as the sensor typically tends to stick in the bore as you pull it out.



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