The Blinky SMT kits consist of primarily surface mount (SMT) components, but also have a couple of through-hole components. If you need some additional guidance and instruction on soldering, SparkFun, NASA, and Curious Inventor all have quality soldering tutorials.
Some parts are polarized, and must be placed on the PCB a certain way, but also some parts are not polarized. On our Surface-Mount Technology page, we describe the two easiest techniques for surface-mount soldering. The first step in hand-soldering is to apply a small amount of solder to one of the pads by heating the pad with your iron and melting a bit of solder to the pad. Once you have a little blob of solder on one pad of the component, use a tweezers to hold the component on the board, with one end on top of the solder blob.
Once you have determined the proper alignment of the LED, you solder it down just like the resistors and capacitor from before.
Once you have the LED flat against the board and properly aligned, solder down the other pin of the LED. At this point, you’ve soldered down all of the surface-mount components except for the coin-cell battery holder, which we will do last. If you want to use your Blinky SMT kit as a badge, and pin it to your shirt or backpack, the kit includes a pin and back clasp for that purpose. The pusbutton is used to switch between display messages, as well as enter into the special programming mode. The next components are the two light sensors that allow the blinky kit to receive data transmitted from the programming webpage. The CR2032 battery holder has two leads that extend outwards on the left and right side, which are soldered down on the back side of the circuit board. Now is a great time to look over your board and check for any shorts or bad solder connections. Give the completed board a final look over, checking for loose solder connections or shorted pads. As part of writing Make: Lego and Arduino Projects, we developed a new line of electronics hardware and software called Bricktronics. Upcoming EventsWayne and Layne will be at the 2016 Bay Area Maker Faire in San Mateo, California, May 20 - 22. Due to package variations from suppliers, the product packaging customers receive may be different from the images displayed. Because they are so similar, the building instructions are combined together into one document. A fine-tip anti-magnetic anti-static tweezers is also requred for moving and holding-down the smaller SMT components.

For surface mount (SMT) soldering, we have a few pages available, including information about hand-soldering SMT and reflow soldering. We’ll start with the surface mount parts like the LEDs, resistors, capacitor, microcontroller, and power switch. In the steps to follow, if a part is polarized, we will mention which way it must be placed. The first is hand-soldering where you use a regular soldering iron along with solder, wick, flux, and some good tweezers to align and hold each part in place while you solder it down. In the steps that follow, we will describe the size, shape, appearance, location on the board, and necessary alignment for each of the surface-mount parts, and show how to solder them down by hand with a soldering iron and tweezers. If you have some thinner-diameter solder to use, that will make it easier to avoid applying way too much solder by accident. If you want to install the pin, detach it from the back clasp and pass the pin through the top larger hole in the circuit board from the front to the back. We suggest having the opening of the battery holder face down, otherwise the badge pin will interfere with inserting the battery cell. If you have a multimeter, you can measure the resistance between the two holes in the upper corners. Our Bricktronics Shield and Megashield are easy-to-assemble soldering kits to interface between Arduino and LEGO Mindstorms motors and sensors.
When you use bulk rates, a flat $1.70 registered air mail fee will automatically be added to your cart to ensure delivery of package. Even though the photographs show a Blinky POV SMT circuit board, the Blinky Grid SMT circuit board is identical (aside from the number of LEDs), and all components are placed in the same positions for both Grid and POV PCBs.
If you have the Blinky Grid SMT kit, you’ll have many more LEDs and a larger circuit board, but should still have all the other parts in the same quantities. Then, we’ll solder in the through-hole parts by hand, and attach the battery holder to the back side of the PCB.
The other technique is reflow soldering, where you apply a solder paste to the PCB and place all the SMT components into the paste, and finally heat up the board which melts the solder and all the components snap into place. If you want to use the reflow technique, simply apply the solder paste and add each of the parts, then heat up the board. As mentioned above, these steps will describe the hand-soldering technique, but the information about part identification and placement still applies to the reflow technique. The component should be pressed firmly against the board, and both ends should be lined up with the pads. We suggest working on a well-lit and empty table or counter, to minimize the chance of losing your components.
If you’ve been simply placing solderpaste and components on your board for use with the reflow technique, now is the time to reflow your board using your reflow oven or skillet.

It will probably be easier to solder the pin from the back side of the board, so flip it all over and solder the pin into place. We like to bend the leads by 90 degrees before inserting the sensors, which makes them easier to hold up to the screen when programming the Blinky kit.
These holes are connected to the battery terminals, and the meter should measure a very large resistance between the two holes. You’re now the proud owner of a Blinky GRID or POV SMT kit, showing the world that you now know how to solder surface-mount technology! While BulkRate's intention is to offer cheaper prices when you buy in bulk, because it is priced separately it on occassions show a higher than retail price. The LEDs shown in the photographs are red LEDs, but the same instructions apply for the blue and green LEDs as well. You can use any soldering iron, although a higher-quality, temperature-controlled adjustable iron will be easier to work with and give higher quality results. When brass joints break, it is possible to repair them using a metalworking process called soldering. The capacitor is labeled C1 on the circuit board, and has nothing written on the capacitor itself. Then, place the battery holder on the board, and use your soldering iron and solder to tack down one of the leads, making sure that the other lead is still aligned with the other pad. We suggest using a corner pin for this since they are easier to access with the tip of the iron.
Since this chip is polarized, be sure to align the dot on the chip’s surface with the notch drawn in white on the circuit board. Another way to check the polarity, is to make sure that the text on the chip looks upside-down when looking at the right-side-up circuit board (like in the second photo below). Apply a little pressure with the tweezers, pushing the chip down onto the board, into the solder, and then touch the iron to the pin on the pad with the solder to make it melt and flow around the chip’s pin.
The chip should be firmly against the board, and all the pins should be aligned with their pads. You can reheat the pad a few times to get the chip pushed down all the way and the pads lined up if you need to.

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