Pictures illustrated instructions for replacing the motor oil in the engine of a 2009 Honda Accord sedan. Look in the oil container,or in the old filter,or on the floor as it has to have had one in it to hold the filter in place against the engine.. My use of the 2012 Honda CR-V for last month's trip to Monterey and Oregon came with one caveat: I would have to change the oil (or have someone else change it) before I set out. The end drive oil filter wrench comes from the same auto parts store, but I bought the oil filter and new drain plug washer at my local Honda dealer.
The CR-V has a forward center jack point that protrudes from a convenient notch in the plastic undercover. That forward jack point is especially fortunate because it makes it easy to put jackstands under the reinforced jack points. The plastic undercover contains a hatch that must be removed to gain access to the filter and drain plug. Trouble is, the drain plug you see here is not tight at all, as I don't have to exert myself in the least to break it free.
Honda is one of those companies that suggest you install a new drain plug washer every time.

In all the oil-stained excitement I forgot to take a picture of myself removing the filter. Looks like I've got a bit more oil to wipe up, and I musn't forget to tighten that drain plug.
Once these are checked (and double-checked) it's time to reinstall the hatch and remove the jack stands to get the car back on level ground. The 2012 CR-V's oil life monitor is ridiculously easy to reset using steering wheel controls. No washers are inside of the filter housing..Is it the same size as the bolt through the cover,or not??? But the unusual nature of our track testing regimen has led us to halve the interval of the very first oil change.
But, let's face it, our test days at Auto Club Speedway are not unlike an autocross weekend. It's part of a perimeter subframe that encircles and supports the engine, transmission and front suspension. I'm not sure what that factory pen mark is supposed to represent, but it is not near tight enough in my book.

You can barely see the scoring on the left one, but that's the telltale that marks it as used. My trusty Rubbermaid drain pan is excellent for this because its gasketed screw top lid doesn't leak and slosh oil all over the car. We'd recommend you change your oil more often just the same if you counted autocrossing or track days among your weekend pursuits. But this sort of perimeter subframe is not something that every car has, so it's quite common to find cars that lack such a front-and-center jack point. As for the new one, it cost 30 cents at the dealer, the same place I bought the new filter. I pour in 3.5 quarts to start, then run the engine for a minute or so to distribute it to the nether regions.

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